Written by Matteo Ruffo
Occasionally, when you travel, you find a city you absolutely fall in love with. Athens is one such place for me.
When you think about traveling in Greece, your head may turn to the prospect of island hopping from one magnificent marina to another, tasting delicious food and staying up all night with friends. You may think of Mykonos or Santorini or Crete, of wild summer nights and relaxing beach days. Of crystal-clear water and picturesque cliffs, clashing with fierce waves like something out of Homer’s Odyssey.
While such experiences are appealing for me, I’d rather be in the thick of things. Athens is as far from a beach resort as you can get, but it’s also a sprawling metropolis packed with some of the best food in the world, one of the greatest oeuvres of history on the planet, and tons to do. It is one of the great cities of the world, a cradle of civilization, philosophy, and creativity, and the birthplace of democracy and sport.
So why is it not talked about more? Why are the islands of Greece typically more popular and more romanticized?
Step a foot into Athens and you will see. Like the more polarizing (and equally beloved by me) city of Naples, Athens is intense.
Rows of restaurants and cafes, topped by floors of apartments, make up the buildings that line the city blocks. Graffiti lines any building that has shuttered its doors, and the air is thick with smoke and smells from hundreds of different culinary delights. Overall, however, the city streets are alive, particularly at night. People help people, and this rings true especially in Athens, where the people are some of the kindest I’ve ever met.
I spent 4 days in Athens, taking a late-night plane on Wednesday, and returning Sunday night. Initially, I thought I might need a day trip to fill my days: I was mistaken. Athens is enormous and packed with activities. You could wake up at dawn and wander until midnight, and you still wouldn’t have scratched the surface of the city.
For me, I split my itinerary for Athens into three main categories: food, monuments, and city life. I love Greek food- who doesn’t? And I knew for sure that I wanted to have as much as possible. Eating local cuisine is a must for me in any country I go to. Knowing this, I had to ask myself: what did I want to try while I was in Athens? In the end, the answer was primarily gyros. And spanakopita, saganaki, bougatsa, baklava, peppers, tzatziki, and feta, of course. And I can’t forget the souvlaki! Or how about a delicious espresso freddo while you people watch at a cafe on the bustling city streets?
Greek food is some of the most incredible in the world, and for good reason. The Greek people are incredibly passionate and prideful of their culinary identity; it is something that has developed over the millennia alongside the rich culinary history of Turkey. For example, during the Hellenistic Period and Eastern Roman Empire’s rule in Anatolia, seafood dishes, stews, and desserts began to sprout throughout what is modern-day Turkey, based heftily on Greek design. Gaziantep, Turkey’s modern culinary capital, developed as a spice crossroads between the far East, Byzantine Antiochia, and the rest of mainland Turkey and Greece.
Likewise, after the Fall of Constantinople in 1453 and the conquering of Greece by the Ottoman Empire in 1460, Greek food became heavily influenced by Turkish rule, particularly through the introduction of further ingredients from Ottoman territories in the East: eggplant, spices, and kofta were more heavily utilized in Greek cuisine, leading to the development of gyro and moussaka recipes; and Greek yogurt began to develop into what we know of it as today, most likely through using Turkic straining techniques. The first coffee shop in the world, Kiva Han, was opened in Istanbul (previously Constantinople) in 1475, leading to both nations absolutely adoring the drink. Drinking coffee is a staple in both Turkey and Greece, but in my experience with both countries, I must say the Greeks adore it much more- Turkey is a tea nation as much as, if not more than, it is a coffee country. During the refugee crises of the World Wars and the collapse of the Ottoman Empire and Greek recapturing of Istanbul during the First World War, kebab and souvlaki were popularized in Greece from Turkey, with both countries’ versions taking on their own life as a staple of street food cuisine. And no discussion on Greek and Turkish cuisine can be complete without baklava: to this day, there are great debates over who invented it, and it is a great aspect of the rivalry that persists between the two nations. Greek baklava developed using butter and walnuts; Turkish baklava developed using light oil and pistachios. Which is better? Which is original? That is only something you can decide: but in truth, there is no answer to this eternal debate. Turkey and Greece complete each other: there cannot be one without the other. And while my entire stay in Athens consisted of Greek food, I like to note the influences of each place I visit and everything I try; it really helps give me a broader understanding of the depth of history and culture in each place I visit, and Greece is one of the finest examples of this depth and complexity in the world.
So, where did I eat? While Thessaloniki is generally considered the gyro capital of Greece, Athens has options to die for, and for incredibly cheap, at that. I spent my time visiting legendary restaurants such as O Thanasis and Kostas Souvlaki; more modern locations, such as Tylixto; and local gems, such as Lefteris o Spolitis. While Kostas and Lefteris o Spolitis are nestled underneath the lively apartment complexes of Downtown Athens, Tylixto and O Thanasis are cradled underneath the legendary Acropolis, making for a gorgeous and lively culinary experience. While O Thanasis is famous for its kebab, I ordered the pork gyro sandwich, chili peppers doused in olive oil, tzatziki with pita, and saganaki, a fried cheese dish that tastes much better than it sounds. At Tylixto, spicy gyros are the staple. Kostas Souvlaki is aptly known for its souvlaki, and Lefteris o Spolitis, a favorite with locals, is known for its pork gyros as well, which are smaller and doused in spices. Overall, however, each of these meals make for an incredibly cheap experience. For the entire large meal at O Thanasis, an iconic venue, I spent a maximum of €13 for all of the food items. For gyros and souvlaki at the other venues, a gyro and drink will run you anywhere from €2 to €7 at the absolute most. The cheapest venue was undeniably Lefteris o Spolitis; the most expensive being Tylixto. Overall, however, these venues are all incredibly cheap compared to elsewhere in Europe, and the portions, flavor, and experience you receive from these meals are truly enchanting. Breakfast in Athens can be enjoyed anywhere, particularly at any of the city’s many cafes. While I gave a great variety of cafes my business while in Athens, my favorite had to be Bougatsadiko Psyrri, a place specializing in bougatsa, a honey-smothered custard pastry that is served searing hot. The bougatsa with a freddo espresso was incredible, and its location in the heart of the Athenian neighborhood of Psyrri gives off a wondrous sense of Greek culture and the city’s liveliness.
With so many activities, sights, and some of the liveliest city streets in the world, you can easily spend 4 days in Athens and take your time to get a scope of its history, people, and culture, day or night. Naturally, I spent much of my time in Athens exploring not only the modern architecture, but also the Ancient Greek and Roman era ruins: with fantastic student discounts on all of the sights and museums in the city, Athens’ history, significance, and charm is incredibly accessible. The National Museum of Archaeology holds incredible archaeological finds from the earliest of Greek periods, focusing on the development of Greek culture and art through the Cycladic peoples, Mycenaeans, and Cretans, eventually moving into the era of the Spartans, Athenians, Corinthians, and other states, before writhing through the Age of Alexander the Great, the Ptolemaic Dynasty of Hellenic Egypt, and the Eastern Roman Empire. I made the journey to the Panathenaic Stadium, the first modern Olympic Stadium, in Athens, reveling in centuries of athletic history and excellence.
And naturally, I spent hours exploring Hadrian’s Library, the Roman Agora of Athens, and the Temple of the Olympian Zeus; I wandered through the vast Athenian Agora, the birthplace of democracy and Western philosophy, and climbed to the marvelous Temple of Hephaestus, illuminated by the golden hue of the Athenian sunset. And of course, no visit to Athens is complete without ascending to the Acropolis; a magnificent complex full of archaeological wonders, including the Theater of Dionysus, the Odeion of Herodes Atticus, and most famously, the Parthenon, a massive temple dedicated to the Goddess Athena in the city named for her.
The Parthenon continues to be one of the finest examples of Ancient Greek architecture and art in the modern world; it is maddening to think that until only about 340 years ago, it was almost entirely intact, just as it had stood since its construction in 447 BC, or nearly 2500 years ago.
Today, however, the Parthenon stands roofless and almost wall-less, a product of a war between the Ottoman Empire and Venice in the 17th Century. The Ottomans utilized the Parthenon for ammunition storage and public housing. However, it was attacked during the 1687 Siege of the Acropolis, causing the destruction of the Parthenon’s roof, walls, and around 60% of the Parthenon’s sculptures, many of which had been crafted by Phidias, one of the greatest sculptors of all time.
Despite its near-destruction, restoration efforts have kept the remainder of the magnificent temple intact over the last three centuries, and today it is still a magisterial sight to behold. Strolling beneath the magnificent columns and ruins of the ancient city, mixed with the life and culture of the modern city, is a feeling so overwhelming that it cannot be described; it must be felt.
As a modern city nestled around an ancient marvel: each neighborhood holds something unique to explore. While I spent most of my time around the Acropolis, I still met incredible people and learned much about the grandiose Greek culture, cuisine, and history. In Plaka, I witnessed brilliant examples of Greek art and architecture dispersed throughout the streets. In Monastiraki, the little monastery is the marking place for a square surrounded by little shops, markets, restaurants, and Orthodox monuments; in the incredibly small yet charming Anafiotika, I witnessed an adorable, quaint neighborhood nestled in the shadow of the Acropolis; and in Exarcheia, Psyrri, and Vathi Square, I ate incredible food and enjoyed witnessing local life.
Every night I spent in Athens, I tried to get out to a sunset. Each time, I found a new spot, and enjoyed magical views of the city. On one of my explorations, I found a brilliant view of the Acropolis and city atop one of the city’s many hills, near some ruins that were scarcely visited. In a rather difficult to get to area, I had one of the finest views in the city all to myself; below me stretched white houses for miles, contrasting with the colliding greens and blues of the olive trees below and cloudless sky above. In front of me, the Acropolis, larger than any photo could ever capture; to the left and right of me, rolling hills encapsulating a stunning landscape. As the sun began to set, the blue of the sky turned into a fierce battle between red and orange and yellow, and the city below sparkled in the early-Fall night. The air was cool, the sky was otherworldly, the sounds of the city came to life, and in that moment, the world was mine.
Sometimes, a travel itinerary should just be one thing: walking and witnessing. In Athens, I bore witness to greatness and grandeur beyond what I could have possibly imagined. If the chance ever arises, you must visit. A world is out there to be explored, and Athens is one of the finest places in it.