Written by Katherine Sanders
When Maddie first proposed a ski trip, I made it clear that I had never downhill skied before. I hadn’t even put on ski boots since I was ten, and they were always cross country. I didn’t know what I needed, but I knew I had none of it.
Get the bare minimum.
I needed a ski jacket, snow pants and gloves. A bus stops outside the LaFayette dorms and goes straight to the Metz mall. In the mall, there are stores that provide nice ski gear, but with our budget, Primark delivered. I left with a white and black boys’ ski jacket, grey waterproof pants and black gloves for under 50€.
Enjoy the trains.
The train to Chamonix was the best one yet. We started in Metz at 5:45 am before switching trains in Strasburg, then Basel. The train from Basel to Visp was two hours and went from 8 am to 10 am. We had a beautiful view.
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Explore the town during long transfers.
In Visp, Switzerland, we had a forty minute transfer. The station was so small and it was so beautiful outside, we took a walk. We also took a walk in Martingny, exploring a ski shop. Maddie bought pink snow pants for the next day, and if I was an avid skier, I would have gotten some too. The train from Martingny climbed up the mountain and provided us even better views than Visp, weaving through stone arches and pine trees.
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Save money on accommodation and rentals.
Chamonix has one hostel. It’s a long-ish walk from downtown given how small the town is, but it’s doable. It has scratchy blankets, no sheets and no soap. The sink is also in the room with the beds, which I’m learning now is common in hostels. Leaving the hostel is easy with how beautiful Chamonix is. The view in downtown is generous with snow covered mountains. People with skis thrown over their shoulders and clicking ski boots passed us as we walked down the cobbled roads, exciting us for our next day.
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We purchased our rentals online from Snowbrainer and picked them up at the Intersport in the center of Chamonix. It was just under 20€ for a day of ski boots, skis, poles and helmet. After we picked up our equipment, we bought our own goggles from a discounted ski store across the street.
Dress appropriately.
Arriving back at the hostel with our boots hung over our shoulders and helmets on our heads, we changed into our ski outfits. I frequently am underdressed for the cold, so I layered heavily. The bottom half of me was at a perfect temperature the entire time: fleece lined tights, leggings, sweatpants and our waterproof pants. However, my torso was uncomfortably hot: long sleeve top, turtleneck, patagonia fleece jacket (big mistake) and ski jacket. I ended up getting a little wet from unzipping my jackets, so I would only wear the top and the sweater under the jacket. We tried out our goggles, and they were horrible. They made everything slightly blurry. A waste of 22€.
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Day passes for Les Houches range from 31.90€ to 57€. Ours was on the lower end, about 38€. Les Houches is a bus ride away from Chamonix and is open to 4:00 pm. Purchasing two day passes is probably best for a full weekend of skiing. We could only get our rentals at 8:00 am, and the line took forever, so we ended up at Les Houches at 11:00 am.
We started on the bunny hills so I could learn. I got a hold of turning and stopping, ready enough to join Maddie and Baran for the real runs.
I was not ready. I have never been on a ski lift.
Understand how ski lifts work beforehand.
To enter the lift area, skiers have to scan their passes. I took off my right glove, grabbed my phone and pulled my ski pass from my wallet. I pushed myself through with both my gloves and poles in my left hand and my phone in my right. I start sliding backward and drop my phone on the ground. My phone ends up in Maddie’s hand and, somehow, she and Baran are about to get on the lift. In the haze of stress, I think another skier pushed me forward into the area with the rotating lift. Apparently, I’m breaking a lot of rules because everyone is screaming at me. I try to get out of the way but that seems to make things worse. The next group of skiers, a French couple, ushers me to join their lift.
“You will join us!” She grabs my arm and pulls me forward. We sit down on the lift. “Are you ready? Pull down!” At twenty years old, I’m crying on the ski lift with my new mom and dad.
I fall immediately as I get off the lift. It’s time for a break. After I get back up, I ski over to the rest/food area to calm down. It had a great view. To cover up my face from other skiers, I put my goggles on. They are so hazy, I can’t see anything.
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Don’t be scared.
Baran and Maddie met up with me for a much-too-expensive lunch at 1:30 pm. After fueling up from the tireless skiing I’ve definitely done, I am ready to conquer the slopes. I go down a green to reach the dreaded ski lift. I fell a couple times and struggled to put my skis back on, but I was having a lot more fun. This time, my ski pass is loose in my pocket so I can press my coat against the scanner.
Do not let the ski instructors put an eight year old on the lift with you.
Going up the ski lift a little later, the Les Houches ski instructors declare that a little girl will sit with us. The first time, Maddie watched the little girl, stressed as she leaned far over the bar. The second time, Baran and I were deep in conversation when we heard Maddie say, “Oh my god! He fell!” We looked down at the ground behind us where the little boy lay flat. He only fell about seven feet, and the ski instructors didn’t really seem to care as they carried him by his armpits back to the still-moving lift.
I can’t say much about the runs, but the blues were great. I fell less and less each time, and if I fell, I could pick myself up quickly. Unfortunately, the mountain started closing at 3:45pm. We skied back to our starting point and passed a blue that went down to the base of the mountain.
What if we ski down the mountain?
Ski down the mountain.
Baran is not a fan of this plan. It’s completely fine if she takes the gondola, but this is so much more fun! We’re all okay until a steep, icy hill. Ski patrol is beginning to make sweeps of the mountain at this point, and they ask if we’re okay. We explain that yes, we are okay, it’s just taking us a while to get down, and I have definitely skied downhill before, just not much. I start going down, and my legs fly over my head and I smack on the ground. “I’m okay! I’m okay!” I say while laughing. I get up again and fall even worse. The Jake-Gyllenhaal-ski-patrol-look-alike shakes his head and laughs.
Ski patrol convinced Baran to wait for a ski mobile. The next run, ski patrol told me, “This is a good idea. Ski a little, fall, ski a little, fall again!” I was forced to wait for a ride down five minutes later. It was free and I grinned ear to ear the whole way down, fully convinced I was going to fly off at any second.
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Take the film off the outside of the goggles AND the inside.
On one of our trains from Geneva to Metz, Baran pulled out our waste-of-twenty-euro goggles. Her eyes grew wide.
“There’s a film on the inside of the goggles.”