Traveling to a new country means a new version of the Little Prince. For some, it’s a new postcard or magnet. For us, it’s another Dubai Chocolate bar.
At a street vendor in Berlin, Baran asked if she should buy a Dubai chocolate bar for us to split. A Dubai Chocolate bar is a milk chocolate bar filled with pistachio cream, tahini, and toasted knafeh. I had never been particularly intrigued by the bar due to its odd texture, but I’ve never said “no” to a new food. We took the bar to Dead Chicken Alley, sat down at a picnic table, and tried it. We’ve never been the same.
On our way from Prague to Salzburg, we stopped at a Spar to grab dinner. Maddie gasped and pointed to a shelf while we waited to checkout. It was a Dubai chocolate bar. This bar had less crunchy knafeh than the first, but it was still good. In Salzburg, we heard a woman say “Dubai Chocolate” and snapped our heads around. A local coffee shop sold a Dubai chocolate milkshake. We had to get it.
Our spring break allowed us only a few hours in Madrid as we hopped along coastal Spanish cities. We walked quickly through El Retiro park towards Myka, a frozen yogurt shop with Dubai chocolate toppings. Melted chocolate and pistachio cream mixed with knafeh on frozen, plain greek yogurt.
I’m embarrassed about Vienna. Walking around the market in the morning, a man tried to convince us to buy a 15 euro bar of Dubai chocolate. We refused – something we wouldn’t do now. Heading towards the opera house, we went into Spar to get an energy drink. A lime green drink with a brown label caught my eye. It was a Dubai Chocolate flavored drink. It looked like Mountain Dew. I bought it. The three of us sat outside the opera house and sipped from the bottle. Horrible. Thirty seconds after Maddie left for brunch with her cousin, Baran and I spotted a Lindt chocolate store. Large green posters displayed in the windows read: Dubai Chocolate. Lindt’s new Dubai chocolate bar was released that week. It was 10 euros and still the best Dubai Chocolate bar I have tried.
We searched for Dubai chocolate in Edinburgh. We stopped in every random grocery store and chocolate shop in hopes they sold the bar. By the end of the trip, I grew frustrated. “We haven’t had Dubai Chocolate since Vienna!” That was six days ago.
Maddie and I flew from Paris to Belfast to celebrate St. Patricks Day in Dublin. The Belfast shopping mall has a Belgian Chocolate shop. It sells cups of strawberries topped with chocolate, pistachio cream and knafeh. We got the bus off a stop early to stroll through the mall and pick up a cup before our train left. The toppings were perfect, but there were too many strawberries. The strawberries were too thick. We wanted more of the topping.
Baran came back from Poland with a jar of pistachio cream. With a free afternoon and an unsatisfiable craving, we got the C12 to Carrefour.
INGREDIENTS:
1. Milk chocolate bars (ours came in a pack of five, but we used two)
2. A crunchy cereal substitute for knafeh (preferably a shredded wheat cereal)
3. Tahini
4. Cooking mold used for madeleines
We arrived in the GTE lounge kitchen with our ingredients and started on our chocolate. It only took us an hour.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Melt two bars of milk chocolate
2. Crush the cereal up and mix with pistachio cream
3. Add a bit of tahini and salt
4. Paint the madeleine molds with a thin layer of chocolate and let harden in the fridge
5. Add a spoonful of the pistachio/cereal mixture
6. Cover with melted chocolate and let harden in the fridge
Although nothing will ever match the Lindt chocolate, these little bars will hold us over for when we miss Dubai chocolate.
I take food VERY seriously. For me, experiencing a new country primarily means experiencing a new cuisine. In Germany I needed schnitzel, in Italy I needed gelato, and in Belgium I needed chocolate. My willingness to eat out on the weekends usually means that in Metz, I take advantage of all the free food opportunities I can get.
Breakfast is catered by Paul. You can expect to get a different breakfast every day of the week, but there isn’t an assigned food for each day. It rotates between full size croissants and pain au chocolats; mini croissants, mini pain au chocolats and mini gourmandises; powdered jelly-filled beignets and nutella-filled chocolate-dipped beignets; and chocolate chip brioche with an assortment of breakfast cakes.
Coffee, orange juice, and apple juice are always provided. There is also a vending machine in the lounge that serves lattes, cappuccinos, americanos and potage “tomats” (tomato soup???).
As I’ve mentioned before, lunch at GTE is provided by the nearby high school, “Crous.” The lunch period for French high schools is very long. In French culture, lunch is a time to take a break and socialize. Working while eating is unacceptable and fortunately, I comply.
Unlike in the U.S., where lunch is usually a grab-and-go situation, French organizations take their lunch seriously. The local cafeteria available to GTE students serves lunch consisting of a savory side, main, and sweet side. Students are allotted ten points. Five of those come from the main course and the other five come from two sides. You can mix and match however you like, but your plate cannot exceed ten points.
Sides are usually carrot, celeriac root, beetroot, green salad or potato salad. Depending on the size, these are usually worth two points. Sometimes, there’s fish, liver pâté or hard-boiled eggs. These sides are worth three points. Every day, a new type of cheese is given as a side for two points.
The main meal is typically a combination of meat (or substitute), grain, and vegetable stir fry. Students have a good amount of power in what they get on their plate. You can mix and match a single protein with different sides. There are two types of meats, one a vegetarian option and one chicken, turkey, or beef. Couscous, rice, or mashed potatoes are the grain, and the constant vegetable stir fry always has green beans and carrots. There are a few odd days where french fries, lasagna, or kebab are choices. If you tell the servers you are “grosse faim” (very hungry), they will give you “une grande portion” (a large portion). The same goes for if you are “petite faim.”
For dessert, fruit, coffee, flan and vanilla yogurts are always offered. Typically, there are one or two flavors of mousse or pudding. Since these desserts are prepackaged, they are worth two points. If students are lucky, there can be hazelnut fritters, crepes, tartes or cake. These are all three points. Fruits are always bananas, kiwis, apples and oranges. A large piece of fruit and two small pieces of fruit are two points.
At the end of the line, you place your prepaid “Izly” card on the scanner. I’ve seen some French students pay by card, and it looks like the total is only 3€. After paying, you offered a free “pain” (roll of bread.) I’ve described the cafeteria multiple times, but again, it’s like a high school cafeteria. Water pitchers are at the tables, and students fill them up with a pedal-powered water fountain.
Even after weekends with nice meals and authentic European food, the cafeteria never disappoints me.
P.S. I have a food account (@nibblesbitsandbytes on Instagram (it’s a play on terms for binary strings)) and write food reviews!!!
A ten minute walk from the dorms is Carrefour. Carrefour is sort of a French super-Target. It sells appliances, clothing, food and more. I got an umbrella at Carrefour. Maddie got a curling iron at Carrefour. Baran got a trash can at a Carrefour.
In my head, Carrefour is split into five sections: appliances, clothes, toiletries, food and drink. The west side of Carrefour is appliances. There are large appliances: vacuum cleaners and fridges; medium appliances: hair dryers and toasters; and small appliances: headphones and chargers. There is a small section south of the appliances that has cleaning items and a random sale section.
Moving southeast of the appliances is a lot of bread. More than three aisles full of bread. East of that is a lot of croissants. Three stands filled with big, cheap croissants.
East of the appliances is makeup and toiletries. They’re not organized like in the US, but I can’t say it’s illogical. Toilet paper (half of which is pink) and paper towels are in two different aisles. All of the men’s deodorant is next to each other near the face wash, but the women’s deodorant is in a different aisle. Some chocolate bars are also in this section… next to the makeup? But there’s another section with more chocolate across the store.
The center of Carrefour is the produce section. Berries are not refrigerated and there is no sign of kale. If you want to buy fruit, let’s say a bunch of bananas (some are displayed on a giant fake tree like you’re picking them yourself), you must weigh them, put them in a bag and stick the printed barcode on it. If you don’t do this, the cashier will be VERY upset. Nearby are packaged nuts, a self-serve station of olives, and cheese. A lot of cheese. The cheese section is half the size of the produce section. You must purchase your cheese in grams.
Northeast is the actual butcher. There are lots of options for different cuts of meat and different types of meat. Sausages, ham, prosciutto, etc. You can buy meat by the pound or prepackaged, and some is pre cooked.
In the international aisle, there is a small section for the US. They sell hamburger sauce, barbecue sauce, hot dog buns and pancake mix. Not too accurate. East of that is typical cooking materials: flour, sugar, oil and spices. Beans and other canned items are found here as well.
The prepackaged food section introduces a new concept: the nutriscore. A nutriscore is displayed on almost every packaged food item but applies to all food items sold. It rates the item on a scale from A to E and I still don’t understand how it’s determined. Apparently, it’s a point system based on nutrients that are limited and encouraged. Saturated fats, calories, sugar and sodium are limited; fiber, protein, fruit, vegetables, pulsed flour, nuts and olive oil are encouraged. While we can live without saturated fats and sugar, we can’t live without calories. While fiber and protein are important for satiety, nuts are definitely not essential.
Some Lay’s potato chips are a nutri-score C. I’ve seen some get a B. The tub of plain greek yogurt I got was a C. Most cheeses are a D or E. Coke Zero is a B. With no further explanation, I’ll say I don’t love this system.
Walking back towards the center of the store, you reach the milk aisle. None of the milk is refrigerated. Other than plant based milks, there is no clear indication what type of milk a carton is. The milk isn’t in cartons, though. It’s in opaque plastic bottles, and it all looks exactly the same. The eggs aren’t refrigerated either. These aisles are pretty bare.
North of these aisles are energy drinks, snacks, cereal, and so much more chocolate.
Checking out, you are behind the happiest French person ever. They banter with the cashier. You only pick up “c’est bon!” from their conversation. Is the cashier going to try to banter with me only to realize I can only understand “ticket” and “par carte”? Each time, somehow, the cashier seems to know you’re American. They only ask a couple of questions and usually rely on hand motions and clear, simple French words. There is never any attempt to small-talk. At Trader Joe’s, they ask you where you’re from and why you’re getting the purple sweet potato instead of the regular sweet potato. The cashier at Carrefour doesn’t ask ça va.
Baran and I walked back from lunch at Crous Cafeteria discussing how little we knew about Dutch culture. One search led us to a main list of items: stroopwafels, frites and clogs. Perfect. We will eat stroopwafels and frites, and I will buy a pair of clogs.
Our six hour train to Amsterdam landed us in the Amsterdam Zuid station. A metro took us straight to an outdoor mall. We passed thrift stores, a KFC and TK Maxx before reaching our hostel, or hostelle. “Hostelle” is what you would guess it is—a female only hostel.
Hostelle didn’t shy away from its feminine nature. The lobby is decorated in pink and orange with bouquets of flowers on tables and an amalgamation of art work. The kitchen is tiled with colorful, floral porcelain. Walking past the lobby to the stairs, six makeup mirrors line the walls on pink tables with pink chairs. Up the stairs and around the corner, we opened the door to our eleven-person room. The beds and curtains were hot pink, and below each bunk were hot pink lockers where we stored our bags before heading out to the city.
We enjoyed the streets of Amsterdam as we made our way to the Van Gogh museum. The museum is in a canal-side park and looks like a small, glass box. Entering, we headed down below the ground before traveling up three floors of exhibits. I, like many others, was interested in seeing Sunflowers. The office in my grandparents’ Wyoming house had a copy of the painting. I wasn’t particularly amused by the one in Amsterdam because I had firmly believed the copy at my grandparents’ house was the original for so long. There were plenty of other paintings to amuse me, though. The museum displayed many other pieces from artists that inspired Van Gogh or at least had some sort of connection to the artist.
I enjoyed the depictions of Montmartre, other floral works, and a wall dedicated to paintings of worn out shoes. Van Gogh bought shoes from flea markets, destroyed them in the mud, and painted them. The museum had ways of drawing the audience into the exhibits. For the shoes, a pair of real, worn-out vans were on display. The wall reads, “How about your shoes? What kind of experiences have they had?”
The Dutch food tour started the next day at Firma Stroop for stroopwafels. I personally call stroopwafels “caramel cookie waffles.” I don’t really know where this came from, but I had never heard them called “stroopwafels” before this trip. Firma Stroop makes pancake size caramel cookie waffles, dips half of them in chocolate, and tops them with two toppings of your choice. Maddie and Baran both chose raspberries while I chose caramel and hazelnuts. Nothing can really go wrong with a caramel cookie waffle.
As we wandered the streets of Amsterdam, I kept my eye out for a pair of wooden clogs. Maddie, on the other hand, was determined to get a black tube top. If you know Maddie, you know how she feels about her black tube top. Maddie has the perfect black tube top, a staple that I also love to steal. Unfortunately, the item never made its way into her suitcase which meant she had to find a replacement as soon as possible.
We entered into &OtherStories with Maddie going straight for a promising rack while Baran and I eyed the shoe sale. A pair with an oddly clog-like toe caught our eye. We noticed that there were a lot of these peculiar flats on sale, and since I was craving a clog, this was the closest I could get to wearable. The first pairs of “clogs” were a little too pricey and fuzzy for me. As Baran and I returned to the front of the store, we found Maddie with no black tube top in hand.
H&M had one pair of flats with a clog-adjacent toe. They were black satin with a gold buckle. I told Baran if they were under 15€, I would get them. She flipped over the price tag and smiled. 13€. Aesthetically, I could do better. We arrived at the front of the store to find Maddie empty handed.
In Zara, Baran and I kneeled down by the racks to find an enjoyable clog that fit (enough.) A deep burgundy clog caught my eye. It was adorned with a double grommet silver buckle. I put them on and was generally satisfied with the fit. We made it to checkout, but once again, Maddie, with a straight-mouthed smile, stood holding no black tube top.
Our tiring search took up a lot of our energy. We went to Fabel Friet for their iconic fries to recover. The line was fast moving and the fries were very affordable. They come with a choice of cheese and a choice of sauce. Maddie and Baran chose parmesan and truffle mayo. I got cheddar, so we could all try both options, and curry ketchup. I knew that I would taste and probably finish Maddie and/or Baran’s fries at some point, so I wanted to give myself as much variety as I could.
Ending the night on a canal cruise was a great way to wrap up our day. Houseboats float on the sides of the canal, and as we floated down, families ate dinner and watched TV inside. We gawked at the beautiful buildings and the people in the windows. We talked about which one we’d live in. We watched as two boys sat talking on the window sill of a tall building. There were a few software company buildings here. We could make it work for a couple years.
I wore my clogs on the Wednesday after our weekend trip. They were slightly uncomfortable, but as a frequent wear-er of Dr. Martens, I could deal with the pain. I showed off my clogs to everyone I could. No, they’re not wooden. Yes, I did buy them in Amsterdam. No, they only hurt a little.
I returned to my room that night, took off my gorgeous clogs to reveal my sock half drenched in blood. All day, my toenail had been rubbing so much on my other toe due to my flats’ pointy tip that it bled… a lot. A nauseating amount. I was filled with stroopwafel and frites and things close enough to clogs were on my feet. Amsterdam, my favorite city so far, was a success.
Two of my friends returned to Atlanta for the fall semester with stories from their time abroad. Both had gone to France for a summer semester, Zach in Metz and Lilly in Lyon. I loved hearing about their travels. From Charli XCX DJ sets to sunbathing in the south of France, the stories excited me. By the time I returned to Atlanta in August, my friends knew I was leaving for Metz that Spring. Some had advice for living in Europe while others had recommendations for travel.
My friends Maddie and Baran both expressed interest in going to Georgia Tech-Europe in the spring of their sophomore year, so we all planned to go together. Baran was adamant we plan every weekend ahead of time. We created a Google Doc with a list of every weekend. Slowly, we assigned each weekend a travel destination.
If someone asked where I would go in Europe, I pulled up our Google Doc on my phone and flipped it around. Initially, they would gawk, warning me that I would become exhausted. I understand the concern. However, I usually responded with “Probably, but we can figure that out when we get to that point.”
These conversations came with advice I found entertaining and useful.
“Germans think Americans are really funny, even if you aren’t trying to be.”
“Sightseeing in Spain is beautiful until your phone gets stolen.”
“Ask for a pitcher of water rather than a glass of water in France.”
These conversations also brought some critiques from what weather would look like, or how long it would take to get to our travel destinations. At some point I wanted to ask, “why can’t you let me suffer on my own?” It was hard to keep all of the conflicting warnings straight, so I opted to make my own mistakes. I wanted most of my journey to come from my own accord, or at least from a place so deep down I can’t see who shaped it.
For so long, I avoided talking about studying abroad to stay present in my first semester, but when I landed in Montana, I couldn’t keep my mind off of France. As I made my lunch, I thought about the foods I would eat. As I went to the gym, I thought about how I would continue weight training. What skin care items would local stores provide? Could I find my favorite snacks? Despite my worries, I was interested in arriving so I could discover the answers to my questions.
The first two weeks in Metz were exciting and exploratory. Students are given a studio apartment to live in with a personal bathroom and kitchenette*. The kitchenette provides a stove and microwave with an assortment of cooking pans and utensils. The interiors of the apartment buildings are completely monochrome: lime green, red, orange, and yellow. It’s eerily similar to Squid Game.
The GTE building is the size of a small high school, and the environment is similar to one. I usually see the same groups of people in my classes and in the cafeteria. Breakfast and coffee are provided in the lounge every morning. The lounge is where you can find students studying, playing pool, or practicing piano. Lunch is also provided by the school but is through the neighboring high school. Just like high school, you grab a tray and slide down, receiving a plate and side to go sit with the high schoolers in their own cafeteria. The process brings a special case of nostalgia.
Although I am grateful for the opportunity to travel and live in the center of Europe, I can’t say I don’t miss home. Finding reasoning is useless when all the “bad” comes with infinite good, so I’ll say I’ve come down with a case of homesickness. I try to find hints of familiarity in Metz every day. Maybe the cold nips in the same way it did when I walked around campus late at night. I took a walk late last night around Lac Symphonie, and I can’t say it feels like North Avenue. Soon, this new norm will settle into place, and these cold foggy mornings will feel more friendly.
*Dorm situations vary between Fall/Spring and Summer semesters at GTE
Occasionally, when you travel, you find a city you absolutely fall in love with. Athens is one such place for me.
When you think about traveling in Greece, your head may turn to the prospect of island hopping from one magnificent marina to another, tasting delicious food and staying up all night with friends. You may think of Mykonos or Santorini or Crete, of wild summer nights and relaxing beach days. Of crystal-clear water and picturesque cliffs, clashing with fierce waves like something out of Homer’s Odyssey.
Street Art in Anafiotika
While such experiences are appealing for me, I’d rather be in the thick of things. Athens is as far from a beach resort as you can get, but it’s also a sprawling metropolis packed with some of the best food in the world, one of the greatest oeuvres of history on the planet, and tons to do. It is one of the great cities of the world, a cradle of civilization, philosophy, and creativity, and the birthplace of democracy and sport.
So why is it not talked about more? Why are the islands of Greece typically more popular and more romanticized?
Step a foot into Athens and you will see. Like the more polarizing (and equally beloved by me) city of Naples, Athens is intense.
Rows of restaurants and cafes, topped by floors of apartments, make up the buildings that line the city blocks. Graffiti lines any building that has shuttered its doors, and the air is thick with smoke and smells from hundreds of different culinary delights. Overall, however, the city streets are alive, particularly at night. People help people, and this rings true especially in Athens, where the people are some of the kindest I’ve ever met.
Me, In Front of the Acropolis
I spent 4 days in Athens, taking a late-night plane on Wednesday, and returning Sunday night. Initially, I thought I might need a day trip to fill my days: I was mistaken. Athens is enormous and packed with activities. You could wake up at dawn and wander until midnight, and you still wouldn’t have scratched the surface of the city.
For me, I split my itinerary for Athens into three main categories: food, monuments, and city life. I love Greek food- who doesn’t? And I knew for sure that I wanted to have as much as possible. Eating local cuisine is a must for me in any country I go to. Knowing this, I had to ask myself: what did I want to try while I was in Athens? In the end, the answer was primarily gyros. And spanakopita, saganaki, bougatsa, baklava, peppers, tzatziki, and feta, of course. And I can’t forget the souvlaki! Or how about a delicious espresso freddo while you people watch at a cafe on the bustling city streets?
Bougasta from Bougatsadiko PsyrriBaklava & Freddo Espresso
Greek food is some of the most incredible in the world, and for good reason. The Greek people are incredibly passionate and prideful of their culinary identity; it is something that has developed over the millennia alongside the rich culinary history of Turkey. For example, during the Hellenistic Period and Eastern Roman Empire’s rule in Anatolia, seafood dishes, stews, and desserts began to sprout throughout what is modern-day Turkey, based heftily on Greek design. Gaziantep, Turkey’s modern culinary capital, developed as a spice crossroads between the far East, Byzantine Antiochia, and the rest of mainland Turkey and Greece.
Likewise, after the Fall of Constantinople in 1453 and the conquering of Greece by the Ottoman Empire in 1460, Greek food became heavily influenced by Turkish rule, particularly through the introduction of further ingredients from Ottoman territories in the East: eggplant, spices, and kofta were more heavily utilized in Greek cuisine, leading to the development of gyro and moussaka recipes; and Greek yogurt began to develop into what we know of it as today, most likely through using Turkic straining techniques. The first coffee shop in the world, Kiva Han, was opened in Istanbul (previously Constantinople) in 1475, leading to both nations absolutely adoring the drink. Drinking coffee is a staple in both Turkey and Greece, but in my experience with both countries, I must say the Greeks adore it much more- Turkey is a tea nation as much as, if not more than, it is a coffee country. During the refugee crises of the World Wars and the collapse of the Ottoman Empire and Greek recapturing of Istanbul during the First World War, kebab and souvlaki were popularized in Greece from Turkey, with both countries’ versions taking on their own life as a staple of street food cuisine. And no discussion on Greek and Turkish cuisine can be complete without baklava: to this day, there are great debates over who invented it, and it is a great aspect of the rivalry that persists between the two nations. Greek baklava developed using butter and walnuts; Turkish baklava developed using light oil and pistachios. Which is better? Which is original? That is only something you can decide: but in truth, there is no answer to this eternal debate. Turkey and Greece complete each other: there cannot be one without the other. And while my entire stay in Athens consisted of Greek food, I like to note the influences of each place I visit and everything I try; it really helps give me a broader understanding of the depth of history and culture in each place I visit, and Greece is one of the finest examples of this depth and complexity in the world.
So, where did I eat? While Thessaloniki is generally considered the gyro capital of Greece, Athens has options to die for, and for incredibly cheap, at that. I spent my time visiting legendary restaurants such as O Thanasis and Kostas Souvlaki; more modern locations, such as Tylixto; and local gems, such as Lefteris o Spolitis. While Kostas and Lefteris o Spolitis are nestled underneath the lively apartment complexes of Downtown Athens, Tylixto and O Thanasis are cradled underneath the legendary Acropolis, making for a gorgeous and lively culinary experience. While O Thanasis is famous for its kebab, I ordered the pork gyro sandwich, chili peppers doused in olive oil, tzatziki with pita, and saganaki, a fried cheese dish that tastes much better than it sounds. At Tylixto, spicy gyros are the staple. Kostas Souvlaki is aptly known for its souvlaki, and Lefteris o Spolitis, a favorite with locals, is known for its pork gyros as well, which are smaller and doused in spices. Overall, however, each of these meals make for an incredibly cheap experience. For the entire large meal at O Thanasis, an iconic venue, I spent a maximum of €13 for all of the food items. For gyros and souvlaki at the other venues, a gyro and drink will run you anywhere from €2 to €7 at the absolute most. The cheapest venue was undeniably Lefteris o Spolitis; the most expensive being Tylixto. Overall, however, these venues are all incredibly cheap compared to elsewhere in Europe, and the portions, flavor, and experience you receive from these meals are truly enchanting. Breakfast in Athens can be enjoyed anywhere, particularly at any of the city’s many cafes. While I gave a great variety of cafes my business while in Athens, my favorite had to be Bougatsadiko Psyrri, a place specializing in bougatsa, a honey-smothered custard pastry that is served searing hot. The bougatsa with a freddo espresso was incredible, and its location in the heart of the Athenian neighborhood of Psyrri gives off a wondrous sense of Greek culture and the city’s liveliness.
Souvlaki from KostasMeal from O Thanasis
With so many activities, sights, and some of the liveliest city streets in the world, you can easily spend 4 days in Athens and take your time to get a scope of its history, people, and culture, day or night. Naturally, I spent much of my time in Athens exploring not only the modern architecture, but also the Ancient Greek and Roman era ruins: with fantastic student discounts on all of the sights and museums in the city, Athens’ history, significance, and charm is incredibly accessible. The National Museum of Archaeology holds incredible archaeological finds from the earliest of Greek periods, focusing on the development of Greek culture and art through the Cycladic peoples, Mycenaeans, and Cretans, eventually moving into the era of the Spartans, Athenians, Corinthians, and other states, before writhing through the Age of Alexander the Great, the Ptolemaic Dynasty of Hellenic Egypt, and the Eastern Roman Empire. I made the journey to the Panathenaic Stadium, the first modern Olympic Stadium, in Athens, reveling in centuries of athletic history and excellence.
And naturally, I spent hours exploring Hadrian’s Library, the Roman Agora of Athens, and the Temple of the Olympian Zeus; I wandered through the vast Athenian Agora, the birthplace of democracy and Western philosophy, and climbed to the marvelous Temple of Hephaestus, illuminated by the golden hue of the Athenian sunset. And of course, no visit to Athens is complete without ascending to the Acropolis; a magnificent complex full of archaeological wonders, including the Theater of Dionysus, the Odeion of Herodes Atticus, and most famously, the Parthenon, a massive temple dedicated to the Goddess Athena in the city named for her.
Altar to Athena, AcropolisTemple of HephaestusOlympian Zeus
The Parthenon continues to be one of the finest examples of Ancient Greek architecture and art in the modern world; it is maddening to think that until only about 340 years ago, it was almost entirely intact, just as it had stood since its construction in 447 BC, or nearly 2500 years ago.
Today, however, the Parthenon stands roofless and almost wall-less, a product of a war between the Ottoman Empire and Venice in the 17th Century. The Ottomans utilized the Parthenon for ammunition storage and public housing. However, it was attacked during the 1687 Siege of the Acropolis, causing the destruction of the Parthenon’s roof, walls, and around 60% of the Parthenon’s sculptures, many of which had been crafted by Phidias, one of the greatest sculptors of all time.
Despite its near-destruction, restoration efforts have kept the remainder of the magnificent temple intact over the last three centuries, and today it is still a magisterial sight to behold. Strolling beneath the magnificent columns and ruins of the ancient city, mixed with the life and culture of the modern city, is a feeling so overwhelming that it cannot be described; it must be felt.
The Acropolis at Night
As a modern city nestled around an ancient marvel: each neighborhood holds something unique to explore. While I spent most of my time around the Acropolis, I still met incredible people and learned much about the grandiose Greek culture, cuisine, and history. In Plaka, I witnessed brilliant examples of Greek art and architecture dispersed throughout the streets. In Monastiraki, the little monastery is the marking place for a square surrounded by little shops, markets, restaurants, and Orthodox monuments; in the incredibly small yet charming Anafiotika, I witnessed an adorable, quaint neighborhood nestled in the shadow of the Acropolis; and in Exarcheia, Psyrri, and Vathi Square, I ate incredible food and enjoyed witnessing local life.
A Cafe in PsyrriHadrian’s Library in PlakaAnafiotika
Every night I spent in Athens, I tried to get out to a sunset. Each time, I found a new spot, and enjoyed magical views of the city. On one of my explorations, I found a brilliant view of the Acropolis and city atop one of the city’s many hills, near some ruins that were scarcely visited. In a rather difficult to get to area, I had one of the finest views in the city all to myself; below me stretched white houses for miles, contrasting with the colliding greens and blues of the olive trees below and cloudless sky above. In front of me, the Acropolis, larger than any photo could ever capture; to the left and right of me, rolling hills encapsulating a stunning landscape. As the sun began to set, the blue of the sky turned into a fierce battle between red and orange and yellow, and the city below sparkled in the early-Fall night. The air was cool, the sky was otherworldly, the sounds of the city came to life, and in that moment, the world was mine.
Sometimes, a travel itinerary should just be one thing: walking and witnessing. In Athens, I bore witness to greatness and grandeur beyond what I could have possibly imagined. If the chance ever arises, you must visit. A world is out there to be explored, and Athens is one of the finest places in it.
Before heading back to school, I imagine everyone’s feelings are the same: new ambitions, a plethora of excitement, and plenty of anxiety. When you are about to embark on a study abroad, all of those emotions increase tenfold. There is fear, there is change, but above all, there is the grandeur of exploring new places, meeting new people, and experiencing different cultures — a sensation that cannot be done justice by description alone. You must experience it.
After my previous study abroad experience in Barcelona, my excitement drastically increased for this one, but tendrils of uncertainty remained. What if Metz underwhelmed? What if the classes were backbreaking, what if the people were unfriendly? As for the trips, how would I manage? My semester in Spain had spoiled me: despite being just outside of Barcelona, I was provided with quick and easy access to a world-class airport. From Metz, the commute to Paris’ or Luxembourg’s airports would be hefty, and trains would be the preferred mode of mid-distance transportation. How would I travel? Where would I go? How would I budget myself? Yet as I lifted off on my flight from New York to Frankfurt, these questions and doubts faded into obscurity. All of my worries seemed to be far away- I was headed on a new journey, and there was nothing to lose. Adventure awaits those bold enough to take a leap of faith; and any study abroad experience is a leap of faith. I was determined to make the most of what Metz had in store for me.
Any first day can be expected to have its issues. From canceled flights, to missing shuttles, to misplaced luggage, and finally to racing through Frankfurt’s airport, we certainly had ours. After landing, I managed to meet up with some Tech students at an elevator in the airport. Together, we slowly but surely found our way through the airport, made it to our shuttle, and embarked to the Lafayette dorms next to GT-Europe’s campus. I personally fell asleep immediately after entering my room; we were all jet-lagged, all exhausted. It had taken most students nearly an entire day to arrive at GT-Europe; for others, whose flights got canceled or delayed, it took upwards to 40 hours. My trip was fine, however; I had no issues with luggage, and my flight was quiet and uneventful, and I was thankful to be so lucky.
Campus Life & Metz Impressions
Campus itself is slightly outside of the city, but a quick bus ride, provided with our unlimited bus pass*, can get you into Metz quickly and comfortably. My first true experience with Metz was short, but interesting nevertheless. I went into the city with a few friends, and after meeting up with more students, we walked to the Cathedral of Metz, had kebab at one of the cities many kebab spots, and enjoyed the greenery and light that combined to give a breezy, sparkling atmosphere to the city at night.
The dorms themselves are small, but private. You will have no roommates at GT-Europe**, but you will be right next to tons of students who are just as anxious and willing to make new friends as you, so meeting people is easy. A big closet, plenty of shelf space, and plenty of cabinets line the apartment, and a twin bed with provided linens rests next to a window. The school provides you a Eurail pass*, free unlimited Metz bus pass*, and cafeteria pass*, as well as your European student ID: elsewise, it’s really up in the air as to what you get in your room. Maybe you’ll get some utensils, maybe some bowls, maybe some pots and pans. If you’re really lucky, you’ll get a fan. Nobody got a trashcan or trash bags this semester, so half of us went to Cora to purchase some, and the other half waited until the donated supplies exchange to obtain theirs. Overall, however, the most difficult day is the first day – the unpacking, the purchasing of groceries and supplies, the meeting new people and acclimating to your new surroundings. No difficult exam or nerve wracking presentation can ever live up to the pressure of the first day; but we survived, and set ourselves up for a wonderful semester to come.
Lafayette Dorm Room (left), GTE Building Lobby (right)
The campus and dorms are separated by a roundabout lined with trees and vegetation, and a nearby lake is surrounded by soccer fields, outdoor gyms, and student centers, as well as the actual GT-Europe campus itself. Classes are divided into color coordinated rooms on four levels of the GT-Europe building: a cubic, paned-glass building that resembles a Rubix cube at first glance. Most of the classes can seat upwards to 50 students if need be, but none of my classes have more than 15 students, making for a tight-knit classroom culture that allows us not only to get to know each other, but also for the professor to get to know us more than just on a superficial level. Laundry is quick and easy; bed sheets and linens can be exchanged for clean versions every week, and the washing machines are within the dorm buildings and very easy to access. Groceries of any sort can be found at the nearby grocery stores of Auchan or Cora, and an assortment of restaurants dot the area around campus: such as Mamma Mia Pizza, a pizza place that specializes in sprinkling olives on their pizzas, a Southern barbeque place that reminds me of a parody combination of Whataburger, Wingnuts, and J.R. Crickets from the outside, and of course, a McDonalds. Ultimately, I prefer to venture into the city if I am eating out, as there are so many food options to be discovered in just one walk through the city.
Orientation came and went without a hitch: classes started, and the jet lag which had plagued us replaced itself with a new familiarity to the environment we were in. I took the next few days to get to know everyone, clean my dorm, and of course, plan the first of my many trips: nearby Belgium and Luxembourg. And so, our GT-Europe trip begins: starting with the Green City of Metz.
Until then, this is Matteo Ruffo, signing off.
*Subject to change by semester. Please check GTE website for most up to date information.
**Subject to change by semester and student choice of dorms.
Mamie M’a Dit was nothing short of the true French dining experience. From the moment I stepped foot into this quaint restaurant in downtown Metz, I was consumed by the excitement of indulging in a feast of gastronomic authenticity.
The walls were painted red, adorned with black and white photos. The space was decorated with wooden furniture and illuminated with dimmed, soft lights, giving the restaurant a warm, comforting glow. As I sat down, a sense of sleepiness loomed over me due to the cozy ambiance, but that had to be ignored when I was handed the menu. First, I glossed over it, a bit overwhelmed that everything was in French (of course). I attempted to make out certain words that I recognized, like ‘escargot,’ ‘crème brûlée,’ and ‘poulet.’ Not many others stuck out to me unfortunately. The attempt ran short before I humbly requested the English version.
My knowledge of French dinner foods was limited, but I did know a staple of the cuisine was escargot so my decision for the entree was immediate. Given that this was a classy dinner with a 40-euro budget per person, my good friend and I decided to merge our funds. This strategy allowed us to share our two entrees and enjoy a single dessert together, optimizing our dining experience. For her entree, she chose the salmon tartare. As we waited for the server to take our orders, we pondered over what we wanted for our mains and dessert.
Almost everything on the menu looked delectable, but the two items that stuck out to me were the veal and duck breast with Mirabelle plums. Since we made the executive decision to combine funds, I ordered the veal while my friend asked for the duck, each of us agreeing to try each other’s meals so that we wouldn’t miss out. We finally placed our orders after what seemed like forever, our hunger escalating as the evening progressed. Good thing there was unlimited bread!
As the wait for our meals stretched longer, our hunger transformed from mere anticipation to a gnawing sensation. Finally, the entrees arrived and the warm aroma immediately flooded my nostrils. I was eager to devour the food swiftly, but I stopped myself, as I wanted to enjoy every bite and analyze the flavors of this delicacy I had been anticipating for so long. The dish looked elegant; the escargot was enrobed in a lush, white creamy sauce. The history of escargot is a fascinating journey. Initially, escargot was consumed by the lower classes and regarded as an easily accessible protein source. Over time, it transformed into a symbol of sophistication and wealth, especially in French cuisine, where its preparation and presentation became a true art form.
I picked up a spoonful, examining the looks of it before taking the first bite. The dish overall reminded me of clam chowder but without the oyster crackers. It offered a texture that was satisfyingly chewy and flavor rich of garlic, marrying the comforting, bountiful flavors of the sauce with the snail’s unique tenderness. My friend had previously tried escargot in Paris, and I asked her to compare her thoughts on the two. She deemed that her time trying it in Paris offered a more genuine experience because it was served in the actual shells instead of in a sauce. It was still delicious to her; however she appreciated the authenticity of extracting the meat herself, which made me envious of this phenomenon. After the first taste, I could not stop myself from scarfing the rest of the dish down.
Next, came the salmon tartare. It came accompanied by four pieces of bread, an element that enhanced the dish’s appeal with a crispy texture that contrasted with the softness of the salmon. The pairing of the bread and salmon evoked a sense of home and nostalgia; it echoed the popular combination of a bagel and salmon lox. Though it was a delightful reminder of my usual breakfast at home, it lacked the flavorful sensation that I initially anticipated. The freshness of the salmon was undeniably present yet demanded a zestful enhancement, perhaps a twinge of lemon juice, to elevate its mild, but agreeable taste.
The meal starters most definitely did not disappoint, leaving me satisfied but only for a fleeting moment. My stomach shortly beckoned for more food. After an almost fulfilling first course, each passing moment of waiting for the main dishes seemed to heighten our expectations further. The immense apprehension of the forthcoming meal was not just the usual wait for food that I am used to, but an awaited event that promised relief and satisfaction. The desire to feast intensified as the wait went on, and my hunger continued to deepen making my stomach growl ever more fiercely. As my friend and I shared our escalating hunger and the joyful bliss of tasting our dinners, we got lost in deep conversation in order to distract ourselves. Around us, the restaurant’s atmosphere gave us a cozy haven of friendly chatter and laughter amongst us and our fellow classmates. The soft lighting cast a warm glow over the tables, enriching the ambiance with a golden hue as the evening went on, transforming our dinner into an intimate experience.
Alas, the main courses made their way towards us, and we reveled in the excitement of finally indulging in the long-awaited cuisine. In my dish, the veal was submerged in a sauce of Muenster cheese that promised richness but delivered an aroma that unfortunately clashed with my expectations. The scent was aggressively pungent and evoked the unpleasant image of decay, specifically bringing to my mind the idea of rotting mushrooms. My friend was curious about my dish and tasted the veal. She found the smell less daunting than I did. Though she enjoyed it more than I did, she avoided ordering it for ethical purposes regarding the preparation of veal. Veal is often prepared from young calves not raised to maturity, resulting in tender meat. The controversy surrounding veal lies in the methods of rearing these calves, which many argue are restrictive and unethical. The discord between the veal’s savory taste and its off-putting smell created a sensory clash, making it ever so difficult to appreciate the dish to its fullest. The cheese’s potent fragrance lingered, overshadowing the veal’s innate qualities, and making each attempt to enjoy the meal a struggle against my senses.
In contrast, my friend’s duck was a symphony of delectable sensations. The meat was not just tender but juicy, each bite releasing flavors that carried the mouthwatering aroma of a well-crafted meal. This delightful scent and taste were entirely captivating and completely different from the almost offensive notes that blemished my dish. The duck was paired with the sweet tartness of Mirabelle plums, mainly cultivated in the Lorraine region of France, which offered a flavorful harmony that elevated the dish to a different level. The plums’ subtle acidity and natural sweetness intertwined with the duck’s richness enhanced its flavor, leaving me with a sense of envy. I wrestled with my veal as the duck stood as a taunting reminder of what could have been, a flavorful heaven, deepening my regret over my choice and my discomfort over the uneaten, wasted portion sitting in front of me.
It was time to close our course with one final touch: crème brûlée. As our crème brûlée was served, the anticipation for its classic sweetness was evident among my friend and me. The expectation of its timeless flavors is nuanced with its rich history. This traditional dessert originates back to 17th century France and is known for its strong custard base that contrasts with its caramelized sugar top. It has delighted the palates of many people over centuries, symbolizing culinary elegance. Its flavor has depth yet carries simplicity, and it is a dessert enjoyed by many across the world. After my battle with dinner, I needed the taste of something familiar yet delicious. However, the initial bite brought forth a surprising citrus note, different from its traditional flavor, that sparked a blend of both curiosity and disappointment in me. My friend, initially intrigued by the twist, ultimately shared my thoughts in feeling that the dessert strayed from its usual, appreciated simplicity. This unexpected flavor prompted a reflection that resulted in us leaning toward a preference for the iconic taste of crème brûlée we’ve come to love.
As the evening concluded, I reflected on my experience of the French essence. There was a high of beautiful, delectable flavors combined with a low of unexpected tastes and aromas. After my indulgence, I felt a mixture of satisfaction intertwined with curiosity.
This establishment is one that highlights the beauty and mastery of the renowned French chefs. Each dish tells a story from the pungent Muenster cheese that originates from the Alsace region of France to the rich history of escargot. To me, Mamie M’a dit is the epitome of French cuisine. To anyone who wants a sophisticated, elegant dining experience that immerses them into a whirlwind of fanciful, French flavors, Mamie M’a Dit is definitely the place.
One of my favorite ways to learn about different European cultures is the food. Since I have been in Europe, I have followed the mantra of trying cultural food regardless of how different the dishes sound. The following is a list of some of the biggest winners and losers I tried over my stay at GTE:
Win: Cinnamon Rolls
Reykjavik, Iceland
These Cinnamon rolls were probably my favorite thing I ate while in Europe. They were super soft and moist; the powdered sugar which was generously dusted on top did not make the pastry dry. Every layer of the roll blended together perfectly. 10/10 would highly, highly recommend! I loved them so much I would fly back to Iceland just to get them again.
Fail: Icelandic Fish Stew (Plokkfiskur)
Reykjavik, Iceland
Plokkfiskur is a traditional Icelandic fish stew made of fish, potatoes, onions, and bechamel sauce. The result is not a stew per-say, but a thick, rich, creamy chowder which tastes heavily of fish. It is usually served with a piece of sweet rye bread. While I am glad that I tried this staple dish while in Iceland, I was a little put off by the soft consistency of the dish, and could not get over the texture.
Win: Pumpkin Everything
Naples, Italy
When I first got into Italy, the first dish I sampled was pasta– pumpkin filled ravioli, to be specific. It was probably the best pasta I have ever tasted. The next day, I continued my pumpkin tirade, this time with pizza. It was a pumpkin, prosciutto, walnuts, and fior de latte covered pizza which was surprisingly delicious.
Fail: Pizza with Anchovies
Naples, Italy
“Pizza Napoli” is a type of pizza which includes anchovies as the topping of choice. Anchovies are a type of saltwater forage fish which live in the Mediterranean Sea. Because of this, they are quite salty and can be a flavorful addition to pizza. However, I found the cheese and sauce drowned out the taste of them too much. They didn’t add anything to the pizza, and the entire meal tasted just like a normal margarita pizza.
Win: French Onion Soup
Paris, France
I love French Onion Soup, so when I visited Paris, it was on the top of my list to try. It exceeded all my expectations; the soft bready croutons, the creamy cheese, and the richness of the onions perfectly combined for an amazing, iconic French dish.
Fail: Squid Ink Risotto
Nice, France
I personally don’t think the squid ink added anything to the dish; the pasta was tasteless in my opinion except for the faint trace of salt. However, the overall look of the dish was very vibrant and distinctive.
Win: Belgian Waffles
Ghent, Belgium
Belgian waffles were originally called Brussels waffles due to the origin of the dish. The name was changed in order to increase their popularity in the United States. The Belgian waffle is eaten with your hands with minimal toppings. The waffles are fluffy and dense, and you can find them in dessert shops and on every street corner in Belgium.
Fail: Beef Tartar
Bruges, Belgium
Beef tartar, or raw ground beef, is one of France’s signature dishes. This steak tartar was served on bread with pesto and is considered a delicacy. I, however, did not like beef tartar that much; it was very bland. Also, to me, eating raw beef did not sit with me well. Even though multiple sources online tell me it is perfectly safe, I cannot get over the fact it is completely raw meat!
Win: Dutch Pancake
Utrecht, Netherlands
Dutch pancakes, or pannenkoek, are large thin pancakes with a wide variety of topping ranging from sweet to savory. These pancakes are usually about a foot in diameter, covering the entire plate! I thought they were delicious and very different from the fluffy American pancake or the very thin French crepe to which I was accustomed.
Fail: Liverwurst
Amsterdam, Netherlands
I will be perfectly honest: when I ordered this meal, I did not look at the menu too hard. I saw an entrée called “The Amsterdam”, and immediately thought “this must be a very traditional Dutch meal.” I did not expect to receive a plate of Liverwurst (which is a typical Dutch meal, just not what I was expecting). Liverwurst is a German sausage made from beef or pork liver, and let’s just say the waiter gave me a weird look when I ordered it which I only understood after I tried the sausage. Safe to say I will never order anything with liverwurst again.
While my culinary journey is far from over, I am thankful for all the food that I have been able to taste and enjoy. I always recommend future students to stretch your culinary appetite as I have done! While you may not love everything you try, I believe you will enjoy the vast majority of food you eat here and will almost certainly return home with a new favorite dish or two.
*Disclaimer: Lily was not paid to endorse any of the businesses mentioned in this article, nor does Georgia Tech endorse any of these businesses.*
One of the best things about France is the cuisine. France has a wide diversity of food found all over its 12 regions. Follow this food tour in downtown Metz to learn about food from four of these regions!
For breakfast, stop by Boulanger Poulard for iconic French pastries. The shop is touted for the best croissants and most traditional baguettes in the Moselle region! This bakery also serves whole grain and white bread and other pastries in addition to the croissant and pain au croissant. Fun fact: the croissant did not originate in France, but in Vienna, Austria. Historians say that they were heavily inspired from the Austria pastry kipferl. In the 19th century, they were introduced to Paris at La Boulangerie Viennoise and were made flakier than the original. Parisians called them croissants due to their crescent shape! Another interesting fact is that a lot of bakeries are called “viennoiseries” which means they sell Austrian-style baked goods such as croissants, pain au chocolat, and chausson aux pommes.
Look how beautiful those pain au chocolat and croissants are!
For lunch, head to Creperie Le Saint Malo which serves both savory and dessert crepes. Buckwheat crepes originated from the Brittany region of France. Urban legend says a housewife accidentally dropped porridge onto a hot flat pan and created the first crepe. The Brittany region is in the northwestern part of France and includes towns such as Saint-Malo and Rennes and is known for milk and butter, two of the ingredients of crepes!
This buckwheat crepe was filled with tomatoes, cheese, ham, mushrooms, a fried egg, and a pat of butter on top. The restaurant also had crepes with ice cream, Nutella, potatoes, smoked salmon and even escargot!
After admiring the Metz Cathedral, stop by L’Ours Hardi for dinner to taste food from the Rhône Alps region of France. The Rhône Alps region is known for its natural beauty being located in the French Alps and includes cities like Lyon, Grenoble, and Chamonix. Most of the food in this region is cheese based, so of course L’Ours Hardi serves fondue— a pot of cheese to dip pieces of bread and meat into— and raclette, a giant wheel of cheese that is scraped on a bed of potatoes, charcuterie, and cornichons.
Fondue of Comté, Cantal, and French Emmental cheese with a plate of assorted charcuterie, and Spätzle. The cornichons are the little pickled cucumbers!
After dinner, stop by Aux Merveilleux de Fred to try an iconic dessert originating from the French city Lille in the Hauts-de-France region. The Hauts-de-France region is located to the North of Paris and borders Belgium and includes cities such as Lille, Dunkirk, and Amiems. At Aux Merveilleaux de Fred, try a merveilleaux: a meringue-based cake with whipped cream and chocolate shavings.
While I only covered four establishments in downtown Metz, a huge variety of places which serve other French foods are located in the area. It is amazing how diverse (and delicious) French dishes can be, even if you are just eating within Metz. Every region in France is known for completely different foods and cultures. One can even go on a tour of the regions just for cheese! There are also a ton of regional foods from the Grand-Est region which houses Metz such as Quiche Lorraine, Mirabelle plums, and Madeleines! While I only have a couple weeks left in Metz, I know that I will be spending it continuing to find new dishes which I can learn to cook and bring back with me to the States.
